Hats an Anthology by Stephen Jones – Book Review
A Fascinating Insight Into the History, Creation and Wearing of Hats
Jun 22, 2009
Hats an Anthology by Stephen Jones was published by the V&A Museum to accompany a recent exhibition. The book features many previously unseen items discovered in the V&A's archives. It explores the world of headwear from ancient times to the present day and features more than 300 hats including an Egyptian Anubis mask dating from 600 BC to unique and outlandish creations by Stephen Jones and his contemporaries.
Hats an Anthology by Stephen Jones – About the Publication
The book opens with a Foreword by leading designer John Galliano in which he tells the reader about his long-lasting fascination with hats. According to Galliano no outfit could be complete without a hat:
"…the hat is the accent, the exclamation mark, the finishing note that punctuates the whole look." (Hats An Anthology, p. 7.)
The Introduction, written by V&A Curator of Fashion Oriole Cullen, describes the V&A's comprehensive collection of headgear which spans more than 17 centuries.
Stephen Jones provides A Personal View in which he says:
"Everyone from show girls to dictators knows that by wearing a hat they will be the centre of attention" (ibid., p.13).
It could be Coco Chanel's boater, Anna Piaggi's veil, or Tutankhamun's headdress. Jones explores the illusive power of hats to transform the wearer by conveying powerful messages about personality, authority and sense of style.
Jones tells the reader about his life's journey through the world of hat design stating that the Anthology is not intended to be an accurate chronology or a scholarly encyclopaedia.
Hats an Anthology by Stephen Jones – the Layout of the Book
The book is arranged thematically in four main chapters:
- Inspiration – This chapter asks where inspiration comes from, and why do popular styles seem to crop up again and again, continually re-invented. This chapter includes a separate essay entitled Cecil Beaton at the V&A, which discusses Cecil Beaton's contribution to, and influence on, the V&A collections. Highlights of his chapter include the hat Beaton created for the Ascot scene of the film My Fair Lady.
- Creation – This section explores the milliner's workshop, from the materials such as feathers and fabrics to the egg irons, moulds, blocks, patterns and sketches. This section includes a separate essay entitled The Hatbox that discusses the many original hatboxes in the V&A's collection.
- The Salon – This chapter investigates the buying and selling of hats and headwear from the village shop to the department store, from the exclusive milliner's studio such as Philip Treacy's salon in London's Belgravia and Stephen Jones' own millinery shop in Covent Garden, to internet sale rooms. This chapter includes a separate essay entitled The Turban which outlines the history of the turban both as a head covering for male Sikhs and as a fashion item.
- The Clients – This section looks at the designs of the world's leading milliners and the wearers of the hats they created from the woman on the street to Dita von Teese, from Boy George to Madonna. The essay looks at the etiquette of hat wearing? Who should wear hats, where, when, how and why? What style suits which face?
Stephen Jones – About the Author
Stephen Jones, one of the world's best-loved milliners, is regarded as one of the most original and eccentric hat designers. Museums around the world including the Louvre, the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Australian National Gallery (Canberra) feature his designs in their collections. Jones' workshop and salon is located in London's Covent Garden.
Oriole Cullen – About the Editor
Oriole Cullen, a graduate of the Courtauld Institute of Art, is Curator of Modern Textiles and Fashion at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Cullen was previously the Museum of London's Curator for Dress and Decorative Arts.
Hats an Anthology by Stephen Jones puts hats and headgear into a wider context showing how, when, where and why they have been worn by different cultures throughout history. The 128-page book is published by V&A Publishing (2009, ISBN: 978-1-851-77557-6) at a price of £19.99.
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